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A 21-Day quarantine regimen for the Koi Herpes Virus #023
July 09, 2010
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A 21-Day quarantine regimen for KHV

Welcome to the 63 new Subscribers.
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A quarantine tank should be the cleanest water on your property. It should be deep enough and highly filtered, you should cover it with a net to prevent your fish from jumping out, and have it close to a water supply. It should be close to your house where you have easy access and can closely monitor your fish. It should be large enough to accommodate a sick fish and a buddy (Koi are social animals and don't do well alone). It will also need to be big enough for the basic supplies (aerator and such). Along with being your quarantine tank you can also use this as a hospital tank.


If you are going to be using your hospital tank to treat fish with KHV then you will want to be able to raise and manipulate the temperature in this tank. Raising the temperature to 74 degrees F for two weeks will either bring out the virus or prove the fish to be negative of the disease.



The 21-Day quarantine regimen is as follows:



(Note: The following dosages assume a 100 gallon tank. Adjust for your tank capacity accordingly.)


Day 1: After thorough cleaning of tank, refill with dechlorinated water and set up filter with pre-colonized filter media. Add 6 o. of Microbe-Lift/TheraP, mix 1.5 cup of pond salt with water from the tank, then distribute throughout the tank. Add fish.

(Note: Koi do not fare well unless there are two of them together.)

Day 2: Repeat above.

Day 3: Use salt level test kit to check the salt levels. Our goal is to have a 0.3% solution by Day 3.

Days 4, 5, & 6: Monitor with water tests.

Day 7: Add 2 oz. Microbe-Lift/TheraP, check water levels.

Day 8: Add another 1.5 cup pond salt. Salt level should now be at 0.4%

Days 9 through 21: Dose weekly with 2 oz. TheraP.

Examine fish daily.

Watch for odd behavior: flashing, rubbing listing to one side, rapid breathing, or closed gills.

Look for signs of bacterial/fungal infections: white or discolored spots, fuzzy growth on fins, tail or mouth, discoloration around gills.

Check ammonia and nitrite levels every other day. If these levels are high, or if the water becomes cloudy, perform a 30-50% water change, as needed.

Refill the tank with water from your pond. (This will dilute your salt level, so add more salt. The total salt amount after Day 8 = 6 cups or 0.4%.

If you perform a 30% water change, add 2 cups back. If you perform a 50% water change, add 3 cups.

Feed sparingly (every other day) only as much as your new fish will consume in 5-10 minutes and remove any uneaten food. Remember, they do not have stomachs.

DO NOT USE TANK WATER IN ANY OTHER PONDS!

Maintain water temperature in tank at 74 degrees F for two weeks to bring out KHV in the event fish have been infected.


According to Dr. Julius Tepper of the Long Island Fish Hospital, some, but not necessarily all of the following may suggest a KHV infected fish:

  • Sudden death
  • Loss of appetite
  • Rapid "gilling"
  • Lethargy and slow swimming
  • Body sores
  • Areas of "dry" skin (feels like sandpaper).
  • Other areas with excessive slime production
  • Whitish dead areas on the gills

If any of the above signs are seen, contact a Koi Vet or Fish vet to arrange for KHV testing.

Now the day comes and the fish have passed all their tests. It is time to put them in the pond. Take a fresh bucket with fresh pond water, put fish in the bucket, carry to the pond, and gently release the fish into their new home!

Resources: This program was originally designed by Water's Edge




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